Last week, I was searching for the electric service panel at a buyer's inspection. I had taken at least two laps around the house, inside and out, looking for the electric panel to no avail. My client shouted out, "here it is, in the bathroom linen closet, right next to the shower."
Electric panels should not be located in a bathroom (wet location) and need working space clearance for accessibility.
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Monday, June 27, 2011
How long does stuff last?
Life expectancy
The Old House Web Editor's note: This story is adapted from the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development's Residential Rehabilitation Inspection Guide, 2000. Click here for other stories in this series.
The following material was developed for the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Economics Department based on asurvey of manufacturers, trade associations and product researchers. Many factors affect the life expectancy of housing components and need to be considered when making replacement decisions, including the quality of the components, the quality of their installation, their level of maintenance, weather and climatic conditions, and intensity of their use. Some components remain functional but become obsolete because of changing styles and tastes or because of product improvements. Note that the following life expectancy estimates are provided largely by the industries or manufacturers that make and sell the components listed.
Life Expectancy of Household Components
Appliances Life in years
Compactors 10
Dishwashers 10
Dryers 14
Disposal 10
Freezers, compact 12
Freezers, standard 16
Microwave ovens 11
Electric ranges 17
Gas ranges 19
Gas ovens 14
Refrigerators, compact 14
Refrigerators, standard 17
Washers, automatic and compact 13
Exhaust fans 20
Source: Appliance Statistical Review, April 1990
Bathrooms Life in years
Cast iron bathtubs 50
Fiberglass bathtub and showers 10-15
Shower doors, average quality 25
Toilets 50
Sources: Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Bath
Cabinetry Life in years
Kitchen cabinets 15-20
Medicine cabinets and bath vanities 20
Sources: Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association, Neil Kelly Designers
Closet systems Life in years
Closet shelves Lifetime
Countertops Life in years
Laminate 10-15
Ceramic tile, high-grade installation Lifetime
Wood/butcher block 20+
Granite 20+
Sources: AFPAssociates of Western Plastics, Ceramic Tile Institute of America
Doors Life in years
Screen 25-50
Interior, hollow core Less than 30
Interior, solid core 30-lifetime
Exterior, protected overhang 80-100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed 25-30
Folding 30-lifetime
Garage doors 20-50
Garage door opener 10
Sources: Wayne Dalton Corporation, National Wood Window and Door Association, Raynor Garage Doors
Electrical Life in years
Copper wiring, copper plated, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper 100+
Armored cable (BX) Lifetime
Conduit Lifetime
Source: Jesse Aronstein, Engineering Consultant
Finishes used for waterproofing Life in years
Paint, plaster, and stucco 3-5
Sealer, silicone, and waxes 1-5
Source: Brick Institute of America Floors
Floors Life in years
Oak or pine Lifetime
Slate flagstone Lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile 20-30
Terrazzo Lifetime
Carpeting (depends on installation, amount of traffic, and quality of carpet) 11
Marble (depends on installation, thickness of marble, and amount of traffic) Lifetime+
Sources: Carpet and Rug Institute, Congoleum Corporation, Hardwood Plywood Manufacturers Association, Marble Institute, National Terrazzo and Mosaic Association, National Wood Flooring Association, Resilient Floor Covering Institute
Footings and foundation Life in years
Poured footings and foundations 200
Concrete block 100
Cement 50
Waterproofing, bituminous coating 10
Termite proofing (may have shorter life in damp climates) 5
Source: WR Grace and Company
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) Life in years
Central air conditioning unit (newer units should last longer) 15
Window unit 10
Air conditioner compressor 15
Humidifier 8
Electric water heater 14
Gas water heater (depends on type of water heater lining and quality of water) 11-13
Forced air furnaces, heat pump 15
Rooftop air conditioners 15
Boilers, hot water or steam (depends on quality of water) 30
Furnaces, gas- or oil-fired 18
Unit heaters, gas or electric 13
Radiant heaters, electric 10
Radiant heaters, hot water or steam 25
Baseboard systems 20
Diffusers, grilles, and registers 27
Induction and fan coil units 20
Dampers 20
Centrifugal fans 25
Axial fans 20
Ventilating roof-mounted fans 20
DX, water, and steam coils 20
Electric coils 15
Heat Exchangers, shell-and-tube 24
Molded insulation 20
Pumps, sump and well 10
Burners 21
Sources: Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute, Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration News, Air Movement and Control Association, American Gas Association, American Society of Gas Engineers, American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc., Safe Aire Incorporated
Home security appliances Life in years
Intrusion systems 14
Smoke detectors 12
Smoke/fire/intrusion systems 10
Insulation Life in years
For foundations, roofs, ceilings, walls, and floors Lifetime
Sources: Insulation Contractors Association of America, North American Insulation Manufacturers Association
Landscaping Life in years
Wooden decks 15
Brick and concrete patios 24
Tennis courts 10
Concrete walks 24
Gravel walks 4
Asphalt driveways 10
Swimming pools 18
Sprinkler systems 12
Fences 12
Sources: Associated Landscape Contractors of America, Irrigation Association
Masonry Life in years
Chimney, fireplace, and brick veneer Lifetime
Brick and stone walls 100+
Stucco Lifetime
Sources: Brick Institute of America, Architectural Components, National Association of Brick Distributors, National Stone Association
Millwork Life in years
Stairs, trim 50-100
Disappearing stairs 30-40
Paints and stains Life in years
Exterior paint on wood, brick, and aluminum 7-10
Interior wall paint (depends on the acrylic content) 5-10
Interior trim and door paint 5-10
Wallpaper 7
Sources: Finnaren and Haley, Glidden Company, The Wall Paper
Plumbing Life in years
Waste piping, cast iron 75-100
Sinks, enamel steel 5-10
Sinks, enamel cast iron 25-30
Sinks, china 25-30
Faucets, low quality 13-15
Faucets, high quality 15-20
Sources: American Concrete Pipe Association, Cast Iron Soil and Pipe Institute, Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Baths
Roofing Life in years
Asphalt and wood shingles and shakes 15-30
Tile (depends on quality of tile and climate) 50
Slate (depends on grade) 50-100
Sheet metal (depends on gauge of metal and quality of fastening and application) 20-50+
Built-up roofing, asphalt 12-25
Built-up roofing, coal and tar 12-30
Asphalt composition shingle 15-30
Asphalt overlag 25-35
Source: National Roofing Contractors Association
Rough structure Life in years
Basement floor systems Lifetime
Framing, exterior and interior walls Lifetime
Source: NAHB Research Foundation
Shutters Life in years
Wood, interior Lifetime
Wood, exterior (depends on weather conditions) 4-5
Vinyl plastic, exterior 7-8
Aluminum, interior 35-50
Aluminum, exterior 3-5
Sources: A.C. Shutters, Inc., Alcoa Building Products, American Heritage Shutters
Siding Life in years
Gutters and downspouts 30
Siding, wood (depends on maintenance) 10-100
Siding, steel 50-Lifetime
Siding, aluminum 20-50
Siding, vinyl 50
Sources: Alcoa Building Products, Alside, Inc., Vinyl Siding Institute
Walls and window treatments Life in years
Drywall and plaster 30-70
Ceramic tile, high grade installation Lifetime
Sources: Association of Wall and Ceiling Industries International, Ceramic Tile Institute of America
Windows Life in years
Window glazing 20
Wood casement 20-50
Aluminum and vinyl casement 20-30
Screen 25-50
Sources: Best Built Products, Optimum Window Manufacturing, Safety Glazing Certification Council, Screen Manufacturers Association
The Old House Web Editor's note: This story is adapted from the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development's Residential Rehabilitation Inspection Guide, 2000. Click here for other stories in this series.
The following material was developed for the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Economics Department based on asurvey of manufacturers, trade associations and product researchers. Many factors affect the life expectancy of housing components and need to be considered when making replacement decisions, including the quality of the components, the quality of their installation, their level of maintenance, weather and climatic conditions, and intensity of their use. Some components remain functional but become obsolete because of changing styles and tastes or because of product improvements. Note that the following life expectancy estimates are provided largely by the industries or manufacturers that make and sell the components listed.
Life Expectancy of Household Components
Appliances Life in years
Compactors 10
Dishwashers 10
Dryers 14
Disposal 10
Freezers, compact 12
Freezers, standard 16
Microwave ovens 11
Electric ranges 17
Gas ranges 19
Gas ovens 14
Refrigerators, compact 14
Refrigerators, standard 17
Washers, automatic and compact 13
Exhaust fans 20
Source: Appliance Statistical Review, April 1990
Bathrooms Life in years
Cast iron bathtubs 50
Fiberglass bathtub and showers 10-15
Shower doors, average quality 25
Toilets 50
Sources: Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Bath
Cabinetry Life in years
Kitchen cabinets 15-20
Medicine cabinets and bath vanities 20
Sources: Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association, Neil Kelly Designers
Closet systems Life in years
Closet shelves Lifetime
Countertops Life in years
Laminate 10-15
Ceramic tile, high-grade installation Lifetime
Wood/butcher block 20+
Granite 20+
Sources: AFPAssociates of Western Plastics, Ceramic Tile Institute of America
Doors Life in years
Screen 25-50
Interior, hollow core Less than 30
Interior, solid core 30-lifetime
Exterior, protected overhang 80-100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed 25-30
Folding 30-lifetime
Garage doors 20-50
Garage door opener 10
Sources: Wayne Dalton Corporation, National Wood Window and Door Association, Raynor Garage Doors
Electrical Life in years
Copper wiring, copper plated, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper 100+
Armored cable (BX) Lifetime
Conduit Lifetime
Source: Jesse Aronstein, Engineering Consultant
Finishes used for waterproofing Life in years
Paint, plaster, and stucco 3-5
Sealer, silicone, and waxes 1-5
Source: Brick Institute of America Floors
Floors Life in years
Oak or pine Lifetime
Slate flagstone Lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile 20-30
Terrazzo Lifetime
Carpeting (depends on installation, amount of traffic, and quality of carpet) 11
Marble (depends on installation, thickness of marble, and amount of traffic) Lifetime+
Sources: Carpet and Rug Institute, Congoleum Corporation, Hardwood Plywood Manufacturers Association, Marble Institute, National Terrazzo and Mosaic Association, National Wood Flooring Association, Resilient Floor Covering Institute
Footings and foundation Life in years
Poured footings and foundations 200
Concrete block 100
Cement 50
Waterproofing, bituminous coating 10
Termite proofing (may have shorter life in damp climates) 5
Source: WR Grace and Company
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) Life in years
Central air conditioning unit (newer units should last longer) 15
Window unit 10
Air conditioner compressor 15
Humidifier 8
Electric water heater 14
Gas water heater (depends on type of water heater lining and quality of water) 11-13
Forced air furnaces, heat pump 15
Rooftop air conditioners 15
Boilers, hot water or steam (depends on quality of water) 30
Furnaces, gas- or oil-fired 18
Unit heaters, gas or electric 13
Radiant heaters, electric 10
Radiant heaters, hot water or steam 25
Baseboard systems 20
Diffusers, grilles, and registers 27
Induction and fan coil units 20
Dampers 20
Centrifugal fans 25
Axial fans 20
Ventilating roof-mounted fans 20
DX, water, and steam coils 20
Electric coils 15
Heat Exchangers, shell-and-tube 24
Molded insulation 20
Pumps, sump and well 10
Burners 21
Sources: Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute, Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration News, Air Movement and Control Association, American Gas Association, American Society of Gas Engineers, American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc., Safe Aire Incorporated
Home security appliances Life in years
Intrusion systems 14
Smoke detectors 12
Smoke/fire/intrusion systems 10
Insulation Life in years
For foundations, roofs, ceilings, walls, and floors Lifetime
Sources: Insulation Contractors Association of America, North American Insulation Manufacturers Association
Landscaping Life in years
Wooden decks 15
Brick and concrete patios 24
Tennis courts 10
Concrete walks 24
Gravel walks 4
Asphalt driveways 10
Swimming pools 18
Sprinkler systems 12
Fences 12
Sources: Associated Landscape Contractors of America, Irrigation Association
Masonry Life in years
Chimney, fireplace, and brick veneer Lifetime
Brick and stone walls 100+
Stucco Lifetime
Sources: Brick Institute of America, Architectural Components, National Association of Brick Distributors, National Stone Association
Millwork Life in years
Stairs, trim 50-100
Disappearing stairs 30-40
Paints and stains Life in years
Exterior paint on wood, brick, and aluminum 7-10
Interior wall paint (depends on the acrylic content) 5-10
Interior trim and door paint 5-10
Wallpaper 7
Sources: Finnaren and Haley, Glidden Company, The Wall Paper
Plumbing Life in years
Waste piping, cast iron 75-100
Sinks, enamel steel 5-10
Sinks, enamel cast iron 25-30
Sinks, china 25-30
Faucets, low quality 13-15
Faucets, high quality 15-20
Sources: American Concrete Pipe Association, Cast Iron Soil and Pipe Institute, Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Baths
Roofing Life in years
Asphalt and wood shingles and shakes 15-30
Tile (depends on quality of tile and climate) 50
Slate (depends on grade) 50-100
Sheet metal (depends on gauge of metal and quality of fastening and application) 20-50+
Built-up roofing, asphalt 12-25
Built-up roofing, coal and tar 12-30
Asphalt composition shingle 15-30
Asphalt overlag 25-35
Source: National Roofing Contractors Association
Rough structure Life in years
Basement floor systems Lifetime
Framing, exterior and interior walls Lifetime
Source: NAHB Research Foundation
Shutters Life in years
Wood, interior Lifetime
Wood, exterior (depends on weather conditions) 4-5
Vinyl plastic, exterior 7-8
Aluminum, interior 35-50
Aluminum, exterior 3-5
Sources: A.C. Shutters, Inc., Alcoa Building Products, American Heritage Shutters
Siding Life in years
Gutters and downspouts 30
Siding, wood (depends on maintenance) 10-100
Siding, steel 50-Lifetime
Siding, aluminum 20-50
Siding, vinyl 50
Sources: Alcoa Building Products, Alside, Inc., Vinyl Siding Institute
Walls and window treatments Life in years
Drywall and plaster 30-70
Ceramic tile, high grade installation Lifetime
Sources: Association of Wall and Ceiling Industries International, Ceramic Tile Institute of America
Windows Life in years
Window glazing 20
Wood casement 20-50
Aluminum and vinyl casement 20-30
Screen 25-50
Sources: Best Built Products, Optimum Window Manufacturing, Safety Glazing Certification Council, Screen Manufacturers Association
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Friday, March 25, 2011
How to Survive a Home Inspection
How To Survive a Home Inspection
A home inspection is one of the most crucial steps on the path to old-house ownership. Here’s how to use it to determine if you should take the plunge on that fixer-upper. By Jane Powell
Buyer beware: What looks like a dream house from a distance could turn out to be riddled with problems upon closer inspection. (Photo: Lori Martin)
You’ve taken the leap and made an offer on an old house, and the seller has accepted it. Caught between euphoria and dread, you have only a few short weeks to reassure yourself that it’s the right house for you—and make sure you haven’t agreed to sink your life savings into a proverbial money pit.
And while you need to investigate the neighborhood, the zoning, the schools, and other concerns, the biggest piece of what the real estate people call “due diligence” will be the physical inspection of the house. Much of your decision on whether to go ahead with the sale, and a large part of your plans for fixing the house after you buy it, will be based on this document.
An inspector will look at the building’s systems and components and let you know if they are functional, when or if they might need replacement, whether they could be upgraded, or if their present state constitutes an immediate threat to life safety. A home inspection may not cover absolutely everything—extras like swimming pools, septic tanks, or burglar alarms will probably not be covered, so you might want to get separate inspections for these. (Especially septic systems—if not properly maintained, they can cost thousands of dollars to repair.)
The Inspector Hunt
An inspector’s written report may come in the form of a simple checklist, or a more detailed narrative report. Narrative reports are generally preferable, as they tend to give more specifics about the home’s issues. (Photo: Jake Hellbach)
First, you’ll need to find an inspector. Real estate agents will often refer you to one, but you may want to find one on your own to ensure you’re getting what you want from the evaluation. Inspectors are not licensed in most states, though many inspectors belong to ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors; ashi.org) or NAHI (National Association of Home Inspectors; nahi.org), which may be able to provide referrals to members in your area. In addition, a subset of ASHI members has formed the Historic Building Inspectors Association (inspecthistoric.org), whose members specialize in older buildings. Many general contractors also perform inspections, but remember, you want someone who is experienced and trained in inspections—knowing how to build a house is not the same as knowing how to inspect one.
Any inspector you hire should carry both general liability insurance and errors and omissions insurance, and the contract should spell out what will (or won’t) be covered in the inspection process. Personal referrals can be helpful, so ask around. It may be more difficult to find an inspector who is familiar or knowledgeable about old houses, especially if old houses are not in the majority where you live. It requires more know-how to inspect an old house than one that’s only a few years old—the inspector needs to know how things were done back in the day, as well as how they’re done now. If you can’t find an inspector who is conversant with old houses, then be prepared to take some of the recommendations you get with a grain of salt.
Nationally, the cost of an inspection ranges from around $300 to $700, and it should take three to four hours. A larger or more complicated property may cost more and take longer. A $99 inspection with a checklist is probably not adequate for a historic home. You should make sure the inspection includes a narrative written report in addition to whatever the inspector will tell you verbally during the inspection.
Asbestos removal requires proper equipment and techniques—if in doubt, leave it to the pros. (Photo: Profotokris)
What to Expect When You’re Inspecting
If it all possible, you should be present during the inspection, and if you want to follow the inspector into the crawl space, then you might want to leave your dress slacks or high heels at home. How much an inspector will look at varies; some will climb on the roof or go into the attic, while others will opt for examining hard-to-reach spots with binoculars. Inspectors are not Superman: They can’t see through walls, behind furniture, or into areas that are inaccessible, and obviously they’re not allowed to poke holes to get a better look, since most inspections take place before the close of escrow.
A good inspection should cover both the interior and exterior of the house and its various systems, including plumbing, heating, and electrical. This doesn’t mean that every single electrical outlet or window will be tested—generally just a representative sample—but the major stuff should be looked at. A good inspector should have tools like moisture meters, electrical testers, carbon monoxide detectors, and water pressure testers. Be aware that even the best inspector may not find everything—depending on the timing of the inspection, certain problems (such as roof leaks or drainage problems in the summer) can be difficult to uncover. Usually the report will include some recommendations for correcting issues that were found, often boiling down to “Get somebody to fix this” or “Get a new one.”
Don’t be disheartened if the inspector comes back with a seemingly endless list of things to fix. Even a brand new house will have a few things wrong with it, and an old house is likely to have lots of things wrong (but no matter how neglected a building has been, it takes a very long time for one to actually fall down). Some will be in the category of annoying rather than life-threatening—broken sash cords, non-functioning doorbells, or missing window screens. Other things that an inspector may consider unsavory will be the very things you find charming about the house—a vintage stove, functioning gas lights, or an original bathroom. Many things in old houses are now considered obsolete, and the inspector might use phrases like “the end of its useful life” or “average lifespan,” but that doesn’t mean that component of your house is going to fall apart tomorrow or that you can’t go on using it for the next 50 years. On the other hand, there may be things that are an immediate life-safety threat, such as gas leaks, a porch in imminent danger of collapse, or rats living in the stove. Most of the inspector’s finds will fall somewhere between these extremes.
In most cases, there’s no need to fear the inspector—take the report, along with your subscription to OHJ, and set forth into the wonderful world of old-house ownership.
Longtime contributor Jane Powell is a restoration consultant and the author of several bungalow books.
Online Exclusive: Worried about what’s on your home inspection report? Share your concerns and get reassurance in our special forum.
Published in: Old-House Journal October/November 2010
A home inspection is one of the most crucial steps on the path to old-house ownership. Here’s how to use it to determine if you should take the plunge on that fixer-upper. By Jane Powell
Buyer beware: What looks like a dream house from a distance could turn out to be riddled with problems upon closer inspection. (Photo: Lori Martin)
You’ve taken the leap and made an offer on an old house, and the seller has accepted it. Caught between euphoria and dread, you have only a few short weeks to reassure yourself that it’s the right house for you—and make sure you haven’t agreed to sink your life savings into a proverbial money pit.
And while you need to investigate the neighborhood, the zoning, the schools, and other concerns, the biggest piece of what the real estate people call “due diligence” will be the physical inspection of the house. Much of your decision on whether to go ahead with the sale, and a large part of your plans for fixing the house after you buy it, will be based on this document.
An inspector will look at the building’s systems and components and let you know if they are functional, when or if they might need replacement, whether they could be upgraded, or if their present state constitutes an immediate threat to life safety. A home inspection may not cover absolutely everything—extras like swimming pools, septic tanks, or burglar alarms will probably not be covered, so you might want to get separate inspections for these. (Especially septic systems—if not properly maintained, they can cost thousands of dollars to repair.)
The Inspector Hunt
An inspector’s written report may come in the form of a simple checklist, or a more detailed narrative report. Narrative reports are generally preferable, as they tend to give more specifics about the home’s issues. (Photo: Jake Hellbach)
First, you’ll need to find an inspector. Real estate agents will often refer you to one, but you may want to find one on your own to ensure you’re getting what you want from the evaluation. Inspectors are not licensed in most states, though many inspectors belong to ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors; ashi.org) or NAHI (National Association of Home Inspectors; nahi.org), which may be able to provide referrals to members in your area. In addition, a subset of ASHI members has formed the Historic Building Inspectors Association (inspecthistoric.org), whose members specialize in older buildings. Many general contractors also perform inspections, but remember, you want someone who is experienced and trained in inspections—knowing how to build a house is not the same as knowing how to inspect one.
Any inspector you hire should carry both general liability insurance and errors and omissions insurance, and the contract should spell out what will (or won’t) be covered in the inspection process. Personal referrals can be helpful, so ask around. It may be more difficult to find an inspector who is familiar or knowledgeable about old houses, especially if old houses are not in the majority where you live. It requires more know-how to inspect an old house than one that’s only a few years old—the inspector needs to know how things were done back in the day, as well as how they’re done now. If you can’t find an inspector who is conversant with old houses, then be prepared to take some of the recommendations you get with a grain of salt.
Nationally, the cost of an inspection ranges from around $300 to $700, and it should take three to four hours. A larger or more complicated property may cost more and take longer. A $99 inspection with a checklist is probably not adequate for a historic home. You should make sure the inspection includes a narrative written report in addition to whatever the inspector will tell you verbally during the inspection.
Asbestos removal requires proper equipment and techniques—if in doubt, leave it to the pros. (Photo: Profotokris)
What to Expect When You’re Inspecting
If it all possible, you should be present during the inspection, and if you want to follow the inspector into the crawl space, then you might want to leave your dress slacks or high heels at home. How much an inspector will look at varies; some will climb on the roof or go into the attic, while others will opt for examining hard-to-reach spots with binoculars. Inspectors are not Superman: They can’t see through walls, behind furniture, or into areas that are inaccessible, and obviously they’re not allowed to poke holes to get a better look, since most inspections take place before the close of escrow.
A good inspection should cover both the interior and exterior of the house and its various systems, including plumbing, heating, and electrical. This doesn’t mean that every single electrical outlet or window will be tested—generally just a representative sample—but the major stuff should be looked at. A good inspector should have tools like moisture meters, electrical testers, carbon monoxide detectors, and water pressure testers. Be aware that even the best inspector may not find everything—depending on the timing of the inspection, certain problems (such as roof leaks or drainage problems in the summer) can be difficult to uncover. Usually the report will include some recommendations for correcting issues that were found, often boiling down to “Get somebody to fix this” or “Get a new one.”
Don’t be disheartened if the inspector comes back with a seemingly endless list of things to fix. Even a brand new house will have a few things wrong with it, and an old house is likely to have lots of things wrong (but no matter how neglected a building has been, it takes a very long time for one to actually fall down). Some will be in the category of annoying rather than life-threatening—broken sash cords, non-functioning doorbells, or missing window screens. Other things that an inspector may consider unsavory will be the very things you find charming about the house—a vintage stove, functioning gas lights, or an original bathroom. Many things in old houses are now considered obsolete, and the inspector might use phrases like “the end of its useful life” or “average lifespan,” but that doesn’t mean that component of your house is going to fall apart tomorrow or that you can’t go on using it for the next 50 years. On the other hand, there may be things that are an immediate life-safety threat, such as gas leaks, a porch in imminent danger of collapse, or rats living in the stove. Most of the inspector’s finds will fall somewhere between these extremes.
In most cases, there’s no need to fear the inspector—take the report, along with your subscription to OHJ, and set forth into the wonderful world of old-house ownership.
Longtime contributor Jane Powell is a restoration consultant and the author of several bungalow books.
Online Exclusive: Worried about what’s on your home inspection report? Share your concerns and get reassurance in our special forum.
Published in: Old-House Journal October/November 2010
Friday, February 25, 2011
Best Remodeling projects
Homepage Home Finance Best Home Remodeling Projects
article.aspx Best Home Remodeling Projects
Opt for exterior updates to get the highest return on investment
By Dona DeZube, FrontDoor.com | Published: 1/18/2011
Image courtesy of Amarr Garage Doors
The best bangs for your home remodeling bucks this year boost curb appeal without draining your checking account: adding a new front door, garage door or siding.
You might crave a new kitchen or a spa-like bathroom, but if getting a good remodeling return matters, spend your dollars where the Remodeling magazine 2010-11 Cost vs. Value Report says prospective buyers will be most likely to see them: on your home's exterior.
Among the projects with the highest returns:
Front door - 102.1 percent
Garage door - 83.9 percent
Fiber-cement siding - 80 percent
Wood deck - 72.8 percent
Minor kitchen remodel - 72.8 percent
Wood windows - 72.4 percent
Remodel attic into a bedroom - 72.2 percent
Finishing the basement - 70 percent
Completely new kitchen - 68.7 percent
Two-story addition- 65 percent
Check out Top 10 Home Remodeling Projects to find out exactly which updates the 4,000 Realtors and appraisers surveyed for the report predict will have the best return based on their cost and the value they add to your home.
Start slideshow >>
And read 6 Smart Home Remodeling Tips for more ways to spend your remodeling dollars wisely.
Start slideshow >>
Copyright 2010 Hanley Wood, LLC. Reproduced by permission. Complete regional and city data from the Remodeling 2010 Cost vs. Value Report can be downloaded for free at www.costvsvalue.com.
NOTE: Remodeling Magazine releases its Cost vs. Value Report each year, so ROI values are subject to change
article.aspx Best Home Remodeling Projects
Opt for exterior updates to get the highest return on investment
By Dona DeZube, FrontDoor.com | Published: 1/18/2011
Image courtesy of Amarr Garage Doors
The best bangs for your home remodeling bucks this year boost curb appeal without draining your checking account: adding a new front door, garage door or siding.
You might crave a new kitchen or a spa-like bathroom, but if getting a good remodeling return matters, spend your dollars where the Remodeling magazine 2010-11 Cost vs. Value Report says prospective buyers will be most likely to see them: on your home's exterior.
Among the projects with the highest returns:
Front door - 102.1 percent
Garage door - 83.9 percent
Fiber-cement siding - 80 percent
Wood deck - 72.8 percent
Minor kitchen remodel - 72.8 percent
Wood windows - 72.4 percent
Remodel attic into a bedroom - 72.2 percent
Finishing the basement - 70 percent
Completely new kitchen - 68.7 percent
Two-story addition- 65 percent
Check out Top 10 Home Remodeling Projects to find out exactly which updates the 4,000 Realtors and appraisers surveyed for the report predict will have the best return based on their cost and the value they add to your home.
Start slideshow >>
And read 6 Smart Home Remodeling Tips for more ways to spend your remodeling dollars wisely.
Start slideshow >>
Copyright 2010 Hanley Wood, LLC. Reproduced by permission. Complete regional and city data from the Remodeling 2010 Cost vs. Value Report can be downloaded for free at www.costvsvalue.com.
NOTE: Remodeling Magazine releases its Cost vs. Value Report each year, so ROI values are subject to change
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Post Super Bowl Buying Frenzy
OK. The Cheeseheads have won the Super Bowl and bragging rights for the coming football season. Lot of good that did the Saints.
Anyway, rumor has it that after the Super Bowl, people will start opening up their wallets and start buying houses again - whoopy!
I certainly hope so, cause I'm ready to help.
Anyway, rumor has it that after the Super Bowl, people will start opening up their wallets and start buying houses again - whoopy!
I certainly hope so, cause I'm ready to help.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Septic Systems and Their Maintenance
Anybody interested in getting down and dirty about this hot topic? I'll start a multi-part posting about this subject soon. I gota go.
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